• Home
  • Latest
  • Fortune 500
  • Finance
  • Tech
  • Leadership
  • Lifestyle
  • Rankings
  • Multimedia

Trendingnow

1

The U.S. spent $30 billion to ditch textbooks for laptops and tablets: The result is the first generation less cognitively capable than their parents

2

Peter Thiel and other tech billionaires are publicly shielding their children from the products that made them rich

3

Trump embraces Australian retirement system backed by Larry Fink

1

The U.S. spent $30 billion to ditch textbooks for laptops and tablets: The result is the first generation less cognitively capable than their parents

2

Peter Thiel and other tech billionaires are publicly shielding their children from the products that made them rich

3

Trump embraces Australian retirement system backed by Larry Fink
LifestyleLuxury
Europe

Bernard Arnault crown jewel opens its archives to reveal the world’s first lipstick, first perfume—and Queen Elizabeth II’s private stash

By
Thomas Adamson
Thomas Adamson
and
The Associated Press
The Associated Press
Down Arrow Button Icon
By
Thomas Adamson
Thomas Adamson
and
The Associated Press
The Associated Press
Down Arrow Button Icon
June 9, 2023, 12:53 PM ET
Ann-Caroline Prazan
Guerlain's Director of Art, Culture and Heritage Ann-Caroline Prazan speaks during an interview with The Associated Press at the perfumer's archive department in Paris, Tuesday, May 30, 2023.AP Photo/Michel Euler
Add Fortune on Google for similar content.

The world’s first lipstick. The first modern perfume. A pivoting toothbrush. The original Nivea cream and serum. Not to mention the intimate secrets of Queen Elizabeth II. These are some of the treasures held in Guerlain’s first archive, which brings stories from the iconic French cosmetic company’s sensational past to life.

Recommended Video

Guerlain gave The Associated Press exclusive international media access to its newly opened archive, a warehouse of wonders shrouded in secrecy and hidden from public view by Paris’ Seine River. It’s a gem of documents and mysterious objects spanning three centuries, each with a unique history of its own.

Yet what is perhaps most remarkable about the collection is that the company founded in 1828 that invented modern perfumery had not assembled it before.

“It’s what we call our little secret,” said Guerlain heritage director Ann Caroline Prazan, who sifted through a mine of artifacts to create the archive in a years-long labor of love. “It was hard to whittle down 18,000 pieces to just 400 from so many years but we did it … Some of the pieces are so fragile, I’m scared to touch them.”

The ambitious project exists thanks to Prazan’s passion — and patience. Through a mist of perfume, she reels off vignettes about Guerlain’s innovations and famous patrons, including French Empress Eugenie, Josephine Baker, Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy, Barbra Streisand, Margaret Thatcher and the late British queen.

As Prazan turned to handle the collection’s most prized object, a lipstick created in 1870 and housed in a contemporary looking gold bullet, she carefully took off her white gloves as if performing a sacred ritual.

“It’s so modern,” she whispered, her finger carefully operating a push-up mechanism to reveal a dark Bordeaux wax pigment still intact after 153 years.

The refillable lipstick has a remarkable story, like everything else in the archive seems to. An employee of Aime and Gabriel Guerlain was walking in a street and happened upon the store of a candlemaker, whose wax and colored pigments gave him a eureka moment.

At the time, women used tubs of colored powder to paint their lips with a clunky brush. Seeing the candlemaker’s tools gave the Guerlain employee the “mad” idea of creating a waxy, lip cosmetic as a stick, Prazan said.

“That small object revolutionized women’s makeup forever,” she said.

Prazan also procured the world’s first ever lipliner, also in sleek gold casing, and a third stick — that one Associated Press journalist could not identify. It turned out to be a liner that women used to paint the veins on their arms and necks blue, a popular technique women used in late 19th century Paris to appear paler. Thankfully, Prazan said, it has gone out of fashion.

That Guerlain is a family-run house across five successive generations is perhaps one reason why the pieces that make up the archive were fastidiously kept. The company was bought by luxury conglomerate LVMH in 1994 but has managed to keep its unique identity.

Innovation, including beyond the sphere of perfume, is the brand’s hallmark. Among the archival treasures is the patent for a pivoting toothbrush. Documents revealed a 1845 design that looked like a precursor to today’s electric toothbrush.

A tub of moisturizing cream called Nivea that was whisked out of a drawer told another tale that connected past and present. The cream, which contained ingredients to whiten the skin of European women, was sold off by the house and sed to create the skincare company of the same name.

Then there is the old bottle of Jicky, the world’s first modern perfume. Created in 1889, it revolutionized the market with the concept of a scent cocktail – not just one note like previous fragrances -— that featured hints of spice, lemon, lavender, wood and vanilla. It also included synthetic ingredients and is the world’s oldest continuously produced perfume.

Sometimes the collection seems less like an archive than a potted timeline of the key moments of the world’s historical figures.

Queen Elizabeth II, featured in a photo on the wall wearing in a glamourous white fur stole, was such a fan of Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue perfume, legend has it, that she emptied a bottle and filled it up with the oil from her 1952 coronation. It was kept for years, such was the late monarch’s emotional attachment to the scent.

From another archive shelf, a bottle for a different perfume gleamed with allure. Prazan says the fragrance was created for the baptism of the queen’s uncle years before he became King Edward VII — and famously abdicated the throne for love.

While the archive is an secret affair, the brand has created an exhibit open to the public for the 170th anniversary of its most famous design, the Bee Bottle. The exhibit, called “Chere Eugenie,” is on view at Guerlain’s Champs-Elysees shop until Sept. 4.

There, the original Bee Bottle — a historical artifact — is on display like a crown jewel with light reflecting off hand-painted bee reliefs. It was created in 1853 for the nuptials of Empress Eugenie and Napoleon III.

The bee was the French imperial emblem and also the emblem of Clovis, first king of the Francs. It has come to represent Guerlain to this day.

For the bottle’s anniversary, 11 international artists and actors, including Charlotte Rampling and Audrey Tatou, created a series of photographs inspired by the Bee Bottle.

A foot in the past with eyes to the future seem to define Guerlain, a mantra its longevity has forced the company to perfect.

“I plan well into the future, easily 100 years away,” Prazan noted after putting away her nearly 200-year-old objects. “I know the house will be around for that long, long after we’re gone. How many people can say that?”

About the Authors
By Thomas Adamson
See full bioRight Arrow Button Icon
By The Associated Press
See full bioRight Arrow Button Icon
Add Fortune on Google for similar content.

Latest in Lifestyle

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025

Most Popular

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Fortune Secondary Logo
Rankings
  • 100 Best Companies
  • Fortune 500
  • Global 500
  • Fortune 500 Europe
  • Most Powerful Women
  • World's Most Admired Companies
  • See All Rankings
  • Lists Calendar
Sections
  • Finance
  • Fortune Crypto
  • Features
  • Leadership
  • Health
  • Commentary
  • Success
  • Retail
  • Mpw
  • Tech
  • Lifestyle
  • CEO Initiative
  • Asia
  • Politics
  • Conferences
  • Europe
  • Newsletters
  • Personal Finance
  • Environment
  • Magazine
  • Education
Customer Support
  • Frequently Asked Questions
  • Customer Service Portal
  • Privacy Policy
  • Single Issues For Purchase
  • International Print
Commercial Services
  • Advertising
  • Fortune Brand Studio
  • Fortune Analytics
  • Fortune Conferences
  • Business Development
  • Group Subscriptions
About Us
  • Press Center
  • Work At Fortune
  • Terms And Conditions
  • Site Map
  • Press Center
  • Work At Fortune
  • Terms And Conditions
  • Site Map
  • Facebook icon
  • Twitter icon
  • LinkedIn icon
  • Instagram icon
  • Pinterest icon

Latest in Lifestyle

Best Recumbent Bikes (2026): Athlete Approved
HealthDietary Supplements
Best Recumbent Bikes (2026): Athlete Approved
By Christina SnyderJuly 13, 2026
2 hours ago
e
Arts & EntertainmentSocial Media
American influencers turn Erling Haaland into the World Cup’s breakout brand
By Kaitlyn Huamani and The Associated PressJuly 13, 2026
5 hours ago
GOP Sen. Mitch McConnell ends frenzied speculation about his health, revealing a fall led to his hospitalization and he’s now in a rehab center
PoliticsU.S. Senate
GOP Sen. Mitch McConnell ends frenzied speculation about his health, revealing a fall led to his hospitalization and he’s now in a rehab center
By The Associated PressJuly 12, 2026
1 day ago
Disney bet big on one of its most popular franchises and most-streamed movie. The live-action remake failed to make a big splash
Arts & EntertainmentMovies
Disney bet big on one of its most popular franchises and most-streamed movie. The live-action remake failed to make a big splash
By Lindsey Bahr and The Associated PressJuly 12, 2026
1 day ago
Manufacturing worker on factory floor
SuccessFlexible work
Fortune 500 Land O’Lakes is letting workers choose what days and times they work—and the flex jobs are getting 25% more applicants than full-time gigs
By Emma BurleighJuly 12, 2026
1 day ago
The ‘Soccer Capital of America’ is now gunning for the Soccer Capital of the World (Cup)
EconomySports
The ‘Soccer Capital of America’ is now gunning for the Soccer Capital of the World (Cup)
By Catherina GioinoJuly 11, 2026
2 days ago

Most Popular

The U.S. spent $30 billion to ditch textbooks for laptops and tablets: The result is the first generation less cognitively capable than their parents
Innovation
The U.S. spent $30 billion to ditch textbooks for laptops and tablets: The result is the first generation less cognitively capable than their parents
By Sasha RogelbergJuly 12, 2026
1 day ago
Peter Thiel and other tech billionaires are publicly shielding their children from the products that made them rich
Big Tech
Peter Thiel and other tech billionaires are publicly shielding their children from the products that made them rich
By Marco Quiroz-GutierrezJuly 12, 2026
1 day ago
Trump embraces Australian retirement system backed by Larry Fink
Personal Finance
Trump embraces Australian retirement system backed by Larry Fink
By Brianna Sosa and BloombergJuly 12, 2026
1 day ago
Current price of oil as of July 13, 2026
Personal Finance
Current price of oil as of July 13, 2026
By Joseph HostetlerJuly 13, 2026
12 hours ago
Wyoming officials say Meta’s 715,000-square-foot data center is responsible for contaminating its water system with a rare bacterium
Environment
Wyoming officials say Meta’s 715,000-square-foot data center is responsible for contaminating its water system with a rare bacterium
By Sasha RogelbergJuly 10, 2026
3 days ago
Ex-PepsiCo CEO Indra Nooyi worked from midnight until 5 a.m. as a receptionist to pay for her Yale degree—and she says ‘respect went up’ because of it
Success
Ex-PepsiCo CEO Indra Nooyi worked from midnight until 5 a.m. as a receptionist to pay for her Yale degree—and she says ‘respect went up’ because of it
By Preston ForeJuly 6, 2026
7 days ago

© 2026 Fortune Media IP Limited. All Rights Reserved. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our and Privacy Policy |  | Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information
FORTUNE is a trademark of Fortune Media IP Limited, registered in the U.S. and other countries. FORTUNE may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Offers may be subject to change without notice.